BEDLINER FOR DUMMIES: A Thorough Explanation

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Hello, everyone I decided to make this video because I posted a video a while back on YouTube, where I did a whole Chevy Silverado up in bedliner, and I kept getting a lot of the same questions over and over again. So I thought I would make a video that addressed all these questions and concerns, and basically I am going to touch on everything from what the product is, where you can buy it to how to apply it, and even the prep work that it takes before you. Actually apply it, so I’m going to first start off talking about the product itself and where you can buy it. If you wish to just skip forward to the prep work and what I do to prep the vehicle before I apply it. There’S a shipping thing popping up right here that says which time you need to jump to and if you wish to just jump to the part where I actually apply it and when I did there, you can click in this corner here and it should show what Time you should jump to in order to see them so before we get started here, I’m just going to address the elephant in the room, as you noticed from my car video something’s changed about me. I don’t know if you can see it at all. Nothing at all, I guess yeah. I actually had a surgery done yeah, it’s been, it’s been a pretty good change in my life now, I’m just kidding. Obviously, I’m missing a hand. It’S a long story. If you would like to know more about that, I provided a link in the description to my webpage. It’S Levi Stanford com, okay, moving on, let’s talk about the product itself, so this is Raptor bedliner, so you can see there. It comes in these bottles. Now you can either buy it in two ways. I don’t know if you can see that there you can either buy it black or what is called tin table right. You can see that says: tinta belite there and the difference between them is black. Is just your standard, black and tin table is basically just a base color and then you add a pigment in there and that attempted to make it a different, color and I’ll get onto that later. The thing three things that are awesome – if I wrapped it by line, is the first one. It has a gloss finish so when it cures it has a nice gloss to it. It’S not just a matte that is plain, and the nice thing about the gloss is also because number two: it is UV resistant, which means that in years and years it won’t fade so that glossy finish on it also helps it not to fade, which is amazing, Because you don’t want to do a whole vehicle or some other project only to have a fade in a couple years and look really ugly right. So it has a nice finish also when it cures it’s not totally solid, which can be pretty bad, because if it cares so it’s like super solid, then when your vehicle heats and expands or shrinks due to cold weather, then it will crack and the nice thing About bed liner is that it is pretty pliable, it’s still pretty hard and is durable, but at the same time allows for that change in temperature and it expands and decreases with your vehicle. So it doesn’t crack, which is an awesome feature. So I’m going to show you a couple projects that I’ve done so far, so my first one was the Silverado one. The link to it is in the description below. If you want to see what I did on that video. Second, one was a Dodge Ram that I sold. That’S this one right here and the third project that I did is. I did the haul of the boat so I’ll stop the inside there. I fiberglass the whole thing and then I covered it in bedliner because it’s waterproof it is durable. So that’s a couple projects that I’ve done. Ok, so moving on, we got the bedliner, you can buy it just in a single bottles or it comes in what is called kits. So it’s these things right here now the kits come in four bottles right, so it has four bottles and in the in the center of the kit, is going to have the hardener it’s going to have enough partner that you need to mix about five bottles up, But that all comes in a box, and so basically you can buy the kit now you can either buy the kits or the bottles straight from the you pol website. So that’s the company that makes bedliner is the you pole right there you pull, so you can either buy it directly from their website which I’m going to provide in the description below or the cheapest places. I’Ve been able to find them are on Amazon and eight on Amazon and eBay. You can find it for about a hundred and fifteen to one hundred and twenty dollars a kit. Otherwise, if you go to your local body shop or some place that sells one just as a distributor, they might charge up to 160 to $ 200 a kid which is freaking outrageous. So Amazon and eBay are your best bet to find them or juice off beautiful website so moving on, so that is cover sebassis. As far as buying the bed line itself. This is the heart nerd now. This is what you need to add to this. In order to make it cure now, as you can see, it’s a different label, this is just the standard. You pulled a 20:39 a partner. Now, if you buy a kit, it’s going to come with a special Raptor, hardener ray, and it looks like it’s just meant. Specifically for this, but this hardener and the Raptor hardener are exactly the same same thing just different container, so when you’re buying kits on Amazon, sometimes it will have the four bottles and then a hardener that looks like this. Don’T get scared. It’S the same. Hardener that comes in the actual kits. They go both ways, so it’s fine to use this stuff now this is the tint. This is that pigment color that you add to the bed liner, the tentacle bed liner, in order to make it change colors. Now I got this at my local body shop. They mix it up for you. You can also get it straight from the you pole website, like I said, link is in the description below now. If you want, you can actually send in your paint code off your vehicle. If you don’t know where your paint code is usually it’s on the driver side door on the inside, you open it up and you’ll see a sticker on the inside. That gives most of the information the VIN numbers stuff like that, but it also have your paint code as well, and if you copy that paint code and give it to the distributors, they can copy your paint code, so it will match your vehicle. So that way, the outside of your vehicle will match the inside. Unless you go here whatever you can, they should have samples there of what colors there are to match. So those are the products right there that you’re going to be looking at to buy now. As far as coverage from my whole Chevy truck work for the whole Dodge, it took me about three kits to do the whole vehicle, and then it took me about a kit and a half so six bottles to do the box itself. So if I were you, I would probably just by just by five kits that way you can get a really good coverage, so I would buy two BOTS two kids in black and three kids of tintin Bowl. It’S going to take about that much so, including everything. So the sanding paper, the filler, that I used on my vehicle to fill in the densest stuff, the bed liner itself, all the different wheels and discs I used for sanding stuff everything included for that Silverado. It cost me about a thousand dollars now that was to do like. I said that included the putty, the paint, the bedliner, the filler anything like that it. So that’s how much it cost me for the silver. I was about $ 1000. If you were to take it to a shop, sometimes to charge it to five or six grand to do a whole vehicle, so this is the way cheaper option. It may not be as good as quality, and sometimes you get a lifetime warranty depending on the shop. I’M not sure what you pulls warranty is as far as they’re in you have to check out the website, but basically ever that’s how much it’s going to cost you roughly, if you’re looking at doing a vehicle now for some people, they don’t like the texture of The bedliner and for those people I say, don’t put it on your truck, then, because there is going to be some texture, it doesn’t matter if you’re using a sodium, soda, blasting attachment or whatever else, there’s always going to be some sort of a texture to it. Now I don’t have it here now, but the gun that I use was the you poll. I basically call it the splatter gun it’s this one right here now that runs about $ 20 on Amazon and basically it’s just a really big nozzle and you spray it on you’ll, see me using it later on when I actually apply this stuff. Okay, I think I’ve covered most of my grounds so, like I said, the description um, so I think I’ve covered all my grounds like. I said you poll website. If you want to check there out see as far as getting your tint and other products like that, I listed a link to their website in the description below. Also, if you’re curious about my mouth and the story behind it, you can check out my personal website Levi Stanford comm, also listed in the description below and, like I said, Amazon and eBay are your best bet. If you’re looking for something cheaper to get this stuff online, so let’s move on to the preparation time and prep work so seeing a bit okay, I am losing my voice really fast, so I’ll try to get as much as we can across so the most important Parts of the whole process is preparation. You have to do a really good and thorough prep on whatever surface it is that you wanted to bed line a rough, the adhesion won’t be there and it will just eventually blink off. So there’s a few tips: I’m going to give you preparing the surface to make sure that there’s a really good adhesion. So I got this old car going here that I’m practicing and showing you everything on now. These grab this here go all the way to the basic of the metal, and so there is a pretty big gap between the paint in the metal and so for these ones, even though you bent line and you’ll still see the mark. So what I use usually typically 80 to 100 grit sandpaper that works the best and the bed line will end up covering this up and so for this stuff have it, and so basically you want to sand it, so everything feels pretty much plus. So there is a huge difference between this crack of the actual paint itself, because when you bed line over that and as long as it’s flush, then it will be nice and smooth. Now, as you can see, there’s some scratches here in here and here but they’re. Just surface scratches, so if you touch them, they don’t feel like they go in really deep they’re for the most part they’re pretty flat and it scratches IDs or scratches from limbs and sandpapered that the bedliner will cover up. You don’t have to worry about those getting perfectly smooth so for basic prep work. You see how there’s the clear coat on this as with any vehicle, there’s a clear coat over the paint that protects the paint and that’s what gives us the shininess. So what you want to do is take your sandpaper and you want to take off the clear coat. You don’t take the paint right down to the primer or the metal. You just need to take off this clear coat here and scratch it up, so that the bedliner stick to really nice I’ll. Do that quick now in between sanding? You need to look at this because it can be really deceiving. It looks like everything scratched up really. Nice and that my prep work is done, but if you wipe it down, so wipe it down with a cloth and then you’ll see that it’s not totally a hundred percent done, there’s still spaces in between and where I’ve missed sanding. Obviously so after I’ve wiped it down, I can see where I need to sand fill, so I’m going I’ll tan a little more and it’s best to send in circular motions, because if you just go back and forth and you’re going to miss a lot. So if you sand in circular motions like this you’ll for sure be able to get mostly everything so anyway, moving on now, I’ve got this to it for a reason, because it’s got this crease in it. So a lot of the times we’re sanding, especially in the bed of a truck these areas that we can trim get into sand very well, but even right here, there’s still this line right here that I can’t really get into sand and there’s going to be a Lot of spaces on the surfaces you’re doing that you can’t get into sand so for what they have is a special stuff called adhesion promoter and cyst up right here and basically, you can either buy it and spray it in a gun or they do have it. In the can, so what you do is you stand as best as you can, and then you take the adhesion promoter and you spray it over the area that you want a little more help adhering to so I definitely spring all on this line here or in The box of a truck in the corners or things that I can’t really get to and though you let that dry for about 15 minutes before you apply the bed liner, okay, so what you do is you get everything prepared and then you spray the adhesion promoter On the places that you need a little bit of help and then you apply the bed liner, okay, so that’s the basic prep! You guys just make sure that the big cuts and the big scratches have been sanded. So a little more flush make sure that the clear coat of whatever it is you’re painting her bed line is gone and it’s all scratched up and it’s a really good surface so that it can actually stick to what you’re doing okay. So once you’re done sanding and getting your prep work done, you need to wipe down the surface. I usually take an ear and my compressor and I blow up all the dust burs and then I wipe it down with the degreaser. That’S evaporating, so I use ejuice break clean is really good because it gets rid of the grease, but it also evaporates it does. It doesn’t leave a surface. There might be some other things out there, but you want something that doesn’t leave a gummy surface afterwards, that just kind of evaporates off, but at the same time gets your grease off. And so once your surface is all clean and ready. And if you have everything taped off that you don’t want spray, it’s time to get sprayed, and so, let’s I’ll show you how to mix things together and where to go from there. Okay guys! So it’s time to move onto the actual application process. I got my bedliner here is my harder, my tint and my gun. So before we start off, you need to make sure and double check that the bottle says tinta bull, okay, that it does not say black. It says tentacle because if it says black and you add you tenth-year screwed, you needs to beat into bowl okay. Now, if you look on the bottle, you’ll see that there’s two distinct lines. There’S this first right. First, one right here, it looks like it’s just a fancy decoration in the bottle, but no it’s actual measuring line, okay and the second one. If you can’t really see it too. Well, it’s at the top of my thumb right there that second line it’s kind of hard to see, but it is there okay. So what you do is you actually fail: the hardener to the top of the crease and then once your harder is up to there then you’ll fill your tint to this line right here and then you’ll shake up the bottle and mix it. So once again, you’ll fill up the hardener until it’s about to the top of the crease and then you’ll add your tint and fill it to about that line. Okay, so let’s go ahead and do that so you can see inside the bottle and you want to make it to the top of the crease. Okay, you just eyeball it. It doesn’t have to be perfect if it’s a little above awesome. If it’s a little bit below that’s okay as well, it’s better to have more than less but just kind of eyeball it! Okay! So right now I have filled it all the way to the top of the crease. So now I take my tin and I’m going to add my hint and I’m going to watch it and eyeball that as well, and you want to just fill it to that brim line. That was there. Oh just barely enough perfect yeah right now. The total fluid is right at that line that top line there, and so what you want to do now is put the lid on make sure it’s tight this one time I didn’t have the lid on tight and I went to shake it and it popped off And oh that’s suck so now that the lid is on tight, make sure it’s tight. You just want to shake it. Are you freaking kidding me? Ah, okay? Well sometimes this happens where my pot lid is actually crap. So now I’m going to have to push down really hard and basically just shake the crap out of it. You need to get it mixed up, really really really really good. Okay, okay! So once you have shaken it for about about a minute, you want to make sure that it’s really really good mix you’re going to take off the lid. Now take your gun and you’re going to put it in like this okay. Now this is pretty handy. This gun just screws right on to the bottle itself: oh yeah, so now it’s on there, nice and tight. You can see right, don’t turn it upside down, or else it will spill back out through this hole. Okay, you always making sure it’s right side up or sideways, don’t ever turn it upside down there, I’m just going to spill out. So this is the compressor gauge. So I can see what psi I’m spraying at right now I have it set to 40. Now it’s really good anywhere between 40 and 80 you’re going to come out with a good product. If you put it up to like a hundred we’re below 40, it’s it’s going to be kind of dicey, so I prefer about 60. If you do usually where I put it, but I’m going to show you the difference between 40 60 and 80. Okay, if you don’t have a gauge like this or if you don’t have a regulator, I suggest you buy one for your compressor unless you have a compressor that only goes up to like 80 psi, then you’re fine, but I wouldn’t shoot it past, 100 or 120, Or else it’s going to be pretty hard to apply so now you are ready to go. It takes about 20 minutes before this starts getting really gummy, so you make sure you want to be able to spray and get you know, go through the bottle within 20 to 30 minutes, or else it starts to set up. Now you voted. I have a piece of cardboard here rather than the hood, and I suggest you never spray this before that. You practice first on a piece of cardboard do not practice on your vehicle. Okay, these vehicles are our babies. You don’t want to screw up okay, and it is a lot different than paint the way it goes on, and I made this I practice on my vehicle first and it made for some not-so-good things, and so, if you practice on piece of cardboard, then you can Adjust your pressure to kind of what texture that you want: okay, so right now I haven’t set at 40 psi and I’m going to practice this now, if you’ve never painted or done anything before I’ll show you a few techniques that make it really good. Okay. So a common misconception or a mistake that people like to do to just try and get the painting done is they’ll just hold it down and go along the top like this. And if you do that, then you’re going to get spots that are thicker than others and it’s not going to be a nice even spray. Okay, so the best way to paint or add bedliner is to feather it like this. So you see how I did there. You just kind of do it little spurts. That way you can get a more even coat. You can see that some spots seem to be filled in so you just do a nice little spray and that’s the best way to do more, even coat. Okay, so I’ll keep going. This is 40 psi. It’S not very high. Now. Another thing the nice thing about bedliner is with your painting, you kind of want to keep it in one direction. You never go up and down your own, but with bedliner it doesn’t really matter there, isn’t any nice crease or anything. So you just want to spray it and fill it in okay, i gold, sideways and then level up and down and in sideways just to get a nice even layer across okay, okay, not bad, not bad! It’S a pretty rough texture right now, and so the nice thing about cardboard is like an otacon. I want my texture to be a little finer than this, so I just turn up my psi and 80 is probably the best you want to go. It’Ll, give you a pretty good fine little texture, but there’s also something you need to know when painting at different psi. You have to adjust the distance from your gun to what you’re actually spraying so right now, since it’s really low psi, I can get closer. If I don’t need that close on a higher psi, you would get run. So if I was this close at a hotkey aside that and then I’d get a spot where it was running, and you don’t want to do that. Okay, that’s why I say you can practice on cardboard first, so you can adjust your distances according to your psi. Do it first, please that I have done it so many times. I’Ve had to learn the hard way where I messed up spots on my truck so practice on cardboard: first: okay, okay, so once you practice on cardboard and you’ve gotten pretty confident, then you can move on to the real thing: okay, so I’m gon na this is On for a PSI skill now, just like, as if you’re painting, if there’s different angles or spots on the truck, you need to adjust so that you’re always spraying it straight on okay, so that you don’t create any run now, like I said at a higher psi, It’S going to come out a lot faster. You have to adjust your differences, hey, okay, so that’s at 60 psi, not bad! I want to remind you guys that I have a professional. I don’t get paid to do this or something hey. This is just something I do on my own time. I do for fun, any average Joe can do this, and so it’s not going to be perfect, but it’s gon na look good. Okay, I chose orange so that it would stand out. So you can see the texture so yeah, 60 psi 40 psi, I’m going to crank it up to 80. Okay, we’re now at 80, psi I’m going to just kind of paint the bottom and then I’ll show you the different textures right once again adjust your distances. According to your psi, okay, so I’m done with that. Now, I’m going to let this keep here for a while, so it usually takes about 18 hours for the bed. Liners are properly fully cure, but I always am safe and I always just go a full 24 hours just before I Drive it or anything just to make sure that it’s adhered and sure properly. If you’re want to add the clear coat after, I would do it probably about 14 hours. You want to do it where the surface is dry to the touch, but is still pliable, because if you do it too late, then the clear coat won’t adhere to the bed liner and you do it too early. Then it’s just going to be a mess. So you want to do it at about 12 to 14 hours. Just when the surface is green, tacky now conditions you want it to be about room temperatures I yield or warmer the warmer. It is the bathroom here so at least room temperature. You don’t want it to be cold, or else it won’t cure very fast or properly make sure your temperature of your working area is also pretty warm, so yeah I’ll check back with you guys. This is kind of driving. Okay, everybody time to check out the differences here in PSIs, it’s kind of cured for a little bit watch the light there. So this isn’t when I showed you at 40, psi. Okay, it’s really rather rough! You can see. There’S big gobs on there identified your very good job, filling it in obviously, but you can see they’re pretty pretty big now. This is the one at 60 psi it is similar, but you do notice that you do kind of fill it in a little bit better and it isn’t as crazy. It isn’t as rough okay, there’s is far away. There’S that far away a lot bigger jobs, not too bad now this is stuff at 60, PS or 80 psi. Sorry, you can see it’s not that bad at all nice kind of even texture there down the sides. Now I did this on purpose. To show you what happens if you get too close, you see there, that’s why you got a practice first, because if you don’t you’ll get stuff like that, where it’s just kind of run right and then that sticks out like a sore thumb on a store, thumb And it’s pretty ugly: now you can see there. That is a dent. That’S what happens. You don’t fill in the actual dents, as they still show up, even with the bedliner on, but, as you can tell those scratches that were on there they’re all gone, it covers them up, really, nice, okay! So this side. This is where some of those bad scratches. So sorry, this is where some of those bad scratches were but they’re all done, because it really covers it up. Nice and well, but, like I said dents, you need to fill those in or else it will pick it up. Okay, it’s not some miracle filler treatment. This is just a thicker version of paint, basically so yeah, 80, 60 and 40. All right, you guys, thank you so much for watching. I hope it answered some of your questions. It definitely proved to myself that I have a far ways to go before. I remember perfect at this stuff, but that’s the thing any regular Joe Schmo can put this stuff on and have it good. But the three things I want you to focus on is CREP: do not skimp on the prep. If you want good adhesion, you got to put in the time. Okay, second, one is practice, make sure you practice on cardboard or something else before you actually go on the truck man, I’m talking about practice, not the game, but practice. Okay. Last thing: please wear eye protection, I’m sorry! I was a moron to this whole video, but I was rushing stuff. Don’T just take your time. You say: don’t skimp out on protection because there might be some blowback, not five chance. It gets in your eye and screws. You over okay, so just be safe out there guys yeah! That’S about it! Thanks for watching. If you haven’t already checked out my other vehicle video, please feel free to go there and yeah peace.

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